Los Angeles

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Los Angeles county is a vast and varied geographic entity. It includes a group of inland valleys, a coastal plain separated by low mountains that are interspersed with steep passes, an arc of still higher mountains, and a long seacoast. Nearly half of the county is taken up by mountain chains—most of them running east-west—that have a dynamic history of earthquakes, firestorms, and mud slides. To the north and northeast are the massive and sprawling San Gabriel and San Bernardino mountains. Stretching in front of them—and more or less in parallel lines from west to east—are the Santa Monica Mountains, Puente Hills, Repetto Hills, and San Jose Hills. These chains delineate the San Fernando, San Gabriel, and San Bernardino valleys. Farther south—running roughly between Orange and Riverside counties—are the Santa Ana Mountains. A magnificent natural feature of Los Angeles county is the coastline’s distinctive beaches, which attract millions of sun worshippers annually.

Three waterways cross the county: the westward-flowing Santa Clara River in the north; the Los Angeles River in the south, extending from the San Fernando Valley east and south to the Pacific Ocean; and the San Gabriel River, which rises from the San Gabriel Mountains in the north and flows south to the ocean. Huge floods have periodically inundated large parts of Los Angeles, and much human effort has gone into confining the waterways within concrete channels. In historic times (1825) a deluge permanently shifted the direction of the Los Angeles River channel from its westward outflow into Santa Monica Bay to a south-flowing outlet emptying into San Pedro Bay. In the winter of 1861–62, a flood left the western part of the Los Angeles basin looking like a chain of lakes dotted with islands. The San Gabriel River also overflowed its banks and at one point merged with the Los Angeles River via a new channel called the Rio Hondo.

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The huge, sprawling, and tortuously shaped city of Los Angeles occupies a sizable portion of the southern part of the county. It too has a varied topography, climbing from sea level at the beach community of Venice to Mount Lukens, which rises above 5,100 feet (1,550 metres). The city started in 1781 as a tiny village of 28 square miles (73 square km) but expanded greatly through a series of annexations when it first established an ironclad legal monopoly over the Los Angeles River watershed and then brought in a new water supply from the Owens River (which rises from the Sierra Nevada, 230 miles [370 km] northeast of the city). To share in this scarce water resource—and to receive much-needed police and fire protection—neighbouring communities elected to join the city. The annexations of Wilmington and San Pedro and a connecting narrow “shoestring” of land (1909–10) resulted when Los Angeles created a harbour and linked it to the city proper. By 1917 Los Angeles had tripled in size by adding the entire San Fernando Valley and the district of Palms. Between 1922 and 1928, 34 unincorporated areas and five cities merged with Los Angeles. As it grew, Los Angeles encircled five independent cities—Beverly Hills, Culver City, West Hollywood, Universal City, and San Fernando.

Original city districts and annexed communities—Boyle Heights, Chinatown, Little Tokyo, Hollywood, San Pedro, Encino, and Watts, for example—still retain their community names and identities. On the other hand, the city never recognized neighbourhoods as such, so these smaller units have only vague and informal boundaries.

Climate

The Los Angeles climate is typically classified as semiarid or Mediterranean. It results from a harmonious interplay of at least three natural conditions: the region’s latitude is far enough south to dissipate the most severe North Pacific winter storms, a cooling layer of marine air moderates the summer sun, and the tall mountain ranges shield the region from potentially intense blasts of desert heat and cold. However, the warm climate and the bowl-like alignment of the ranges also provide the ideal conditions for another well-known Los Angeles phenomenon: photochemical smog, which has remained a part of the landscape since the 1940s. Tough antipollution laws enacted by state and local authorities have helped reduce the motor-vehicle emissions contributing to smog formation, but air quality has continued to be a serious issue in Los Angeles, as well as in many other cities in the state.

Of the region’s two seasons, one is a dry and moderately warm spell lasting roughly from April to November; the second is a wet, moderately cool, but rarely frigid period extending from November to April. The city’s mean temperature is about 64 °F (18 °C).

Temperatures can differ widely depending on location. The San Fernando Valley can be 10 °F (5.5 °C) warmer than Santa Monica in the summer and 10 °F cooler in the winter. Fog, wind speed, and elevation also determine temperature. Beach areas tend to be 10 to 15 °F (5.5 to 8 °C) cooler than downtown Los Angeles. The hottest month, August, averages 85 °F (29 °C) downtown and 68 °F (20 °C) at the ocean, only 15 miles (24 km) away. Areas near the mountains in the San Gabriel Valley can reach 100 °F (38 °C) during the day and fall to the low 40s or 50s F (low to upper 20s C) at night. The coldest month overall is January, when icy roads can close the passes. Temperatures on the plains, however, rarely drop below 40 °F (4 °C).

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The annual precipitation in Los Angeles averages about 15 inches (380 mm). The central Pacific weather pattern known as El Niño has sometimes (but not always) produced more than twice the average precipitation in a given rainy season. Prolonged rains or shorter intense downpours can trigger mud slides (more properly debris slides), especially after fires have stripped hillsides of their vegetation.

The many days of sun and comparative lack of rain add to a sense of physical well-being. Blasts of Santa Ana winds, usually hot and dry, streak through the mountain passes in the fall and winter. Mystery writer Raymond Chandler wrote that during these “red winds,” “Meek little wives feel the edge of the carving knife and study their husbands’ necks.”

Natural environment

Despite the great allure of the region’s natural environment, its other, less desirable elements—prolonged droughts, torrential rains, pounding surf, mud slides, wind-fanned fires, and especially earthquakes—pose serious challenges to human occupation. Earthquakes have been observed throughout the area’s recorded history. Juan Crespi, a Franciscan friar and colleague of missionary Junípero Serra’s, chronicled the expedition led by Gaspar de Portolá in 1769 and noted that a temblor lasting “as long as half an Ave Maria” toppled a soldier from his horse as they crossed the Santa Ana River. The major fault line slicing through the area is that of the San Andreas Fault, located at its closest point just 33 miles (53 km) from downtown Los Angeles. The greatest temblors have been those centred in Long Beach in 1933 (magnitude 6.4), Sylmar in 1971 (6.6), and Northridge in 1994 (6.7). The huge Pacific Plate (containing the portion of California west of the fault) is grinding northwestward past the North American landmass at a rate of about 2 inches (5 cm) per year; in theory, at least, in tens of millions of years southern California and Los Angeles will slide past San Francisco.

Ranching, farming, and urbanization have destroyed much of the area’s original flora and fauna, yet native trees such as oaks, maples, sycamores, and willows are still abundant. The California poppy (Eschscholzia californica) blooms profusely in the spring near Lancaster, some 80 miles (130 km) north of the city, and the native chaparral blankets the mountains. Meanwhile, hundreds of exotic flowers, shrubs, and trees have been introduced. Because nearly every kind of plant can grow in the area, the flora is exceptionally varied. Most of the familiar palm trees are exotics, as are the eucalyptus and pepper trees. Animal species that were common in the 1850s, such as the grizzly and black bears and pronghorn antelope, are long gone, but deer, raccoons, and coyotes still roam in some areas. Even a few nocturnal mountain lions, a protected species, live in the hilly parts of Beverly Hills, Tarzana, and Chatsworth. The endangered El Segundo blue butterfly (Euphilotes battoides allyni) is native to the county.

City layout

The city of Los Angeles is composed of a series of widely dispersed settlements loosely connected to downtown. It certainly does not conform to the popular Chicago school of urban theory of the 1920s and later, which held that a downtown was the main focus of community life, with its influence unfolding in a series of concentric circles out into the hinterlands.

Apart from those who work there, the vast majority of Angelenos have little connection with downtown in their daily lives and are content to work, shop, and pursue recreation in the suburbs that stretch out in all directions. Among the outlying districts that lie within the city limits are Hollywood, located northwest of downtown; Encino, Van Nuys, and North Hollywood in the San Fernando Valley; Century City, Westwood, and Venice on the West Side; San Pedro and Wilmington in the harbour area; and Boyle Heights just east of the river. Some of the newer outlying communities, such as Warner Center, have the appearance of self-contained mini-cities.

The main links connecting downtown and the suburbs are the famed Los Angeles freeways, which spread throughout the region in a vast network of concrete ribbons. A drive in any direction presents a variety of landscapes. Some roads cross the Los Angeles River, which appears in the guise of a huge, cement-lined flood-control channel. The mountains and their steep-walled canyons are lined with shrubbery, grass, and occasional houses. Motorists glimpse some dramatic vistas; for example, a nighttime view of the San Fernando Valley from the Mulholland summit of the San Diego Freeway. In general, however, there is little to distinguish one community from another as viewed from the freeways. Cars and trucks move in solid masses, streaming steadily along at rooftop level through single-story residential areas, shopping strips, and malls.

There is no single manufacturing area in Los Angeles. The typical industrial establishment occupies a single-story building next to a large parking lot and can be found alongside a railroad line or near a major road or freeway that is accessed by giant trucks. All of this tends to illustrate why writer Dorothy Parker is said to have once described Los Angeles as “seventy-two suburbs in search of a city.”

Anyone familiar with a city like Chicago and its grid-based street pattern may justifiably believe that Los Angeles was never planned. The English architectural writer Reyner Banham called planning in Los Angeles “a self-canceling concept.” Yet the Spanish colonists had established the original pueblo in 1781 according to a plan laid out in the 16th-century Laws of the Indies, and the county later maintained a general grid for outlying tracts, roads, and highways. An imaginative and extensive regional planning proposal to preserve open space, completed in 1924 by the planning firm headed by Frederick Law Olmsted, Jr., failed to gather enough support to slow the powerful tendencies toward urban sprawl and the preference for automobiles. Still, the original designs of smaller planned communities in outlying areas such as Westwood and Palos Verdes Estates have achieved acclaim.

Downtown Los Angeles brings hundreds of thousands of Angelenos to its government and commercial offices and its cultural facilities. It has distinctive subareas—Civic Center, Music Center, Spring Street, Broadway, Chinatown, Olvera Street, Little Tokyo, Library Square, and the Staples Center. Although these areas are crowded during workdays, most are nearly deserted in the evenings. Bunker Hill has by and large the tallest, newest, and most-imposing buildings in the city. Downtown has never housed many factories and lost most of its major department stores, theatres, restaurants, and residences when the freeways were constructed; it also has relatively few residents. The wholesale marts for garments, jewelry, toys, furniture, flowers, and produce, however, are among the busiest enterprises anywhere in southern California.

Since the 1980s, the city has taken significant steps to redevelop downtown by increasing housing stock, accommodating new recreational and cultural activities, and inviting pedestrian activity. Loft conversions have created new condominium living spaces. The river is seen as a major recreational asset. Downtown’s greatest deficiencies are its large Skid Row area (sometimes called Central City East) and its lack of housing for middle- and lower-income families and the shops and amenities that make life agreeable at street level.